A 25,000 kms drive around South America - Oct/Nov 2001

Starting and finishing on Copacapana Beach, Rio de Janeiro. Driving 25,000 kms through six countries: Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Chile and Uruguay. One hundred cars: fifty classics and fifty 4x4's.

Day 35 - Lago Grey to Puerto Natales

Simon and Gae have headed off to Santiago via Punta Arenas. Simon has promised us a copy of "Polar Bear", a children's book he has published, for Joel.

We were up early for the boat trip on Grey II to Lago Grey and the glacier. With us were Colin, Paul and David Moffatt, plus Claudio, a very pleasant guide from the hotel. We transferred from a dinghy to a larger boat which was covered and had comfortable seating and set off at 9am. It was quite windy and cold and the lake was about 2 degrees Celsius and very deep, but it was not as choppy as we expected.

On the boat heading up to the glacier.



Once again, there was wonderful scenery with blue icebergs and constantly changing mountains. Then, after about an hour, we saw the glacier close up.

 
It is 26/27 kms long by 6 kms wide and is fantastic. The others all saw a condor very close by, but I missed it, being in another part of the boat! We very slowly went right up to the glacier and the crew went and chipped off some ice for our drinks. We had Pisco sours with approx. 10,000 year old ice! We touched a large piece of the ice which was extremely clear and smooth. The ice in our drinks lasted for ages and did not seem to melt at all. Close up, the glacier was incredible - tall and of varying shades of blue - and looking like fantastic sculptures.


We got cold on deck on the way back looking for the condor (in vain), but saw some up high later on. A great trip - $60 well spent.

The glacier is retreating very quickly and in the past 100 years it has retreated by over three kilometres. The bare rock walls on each side of the glacier and along the lake shores are evidence of the retreat taking place.

On the way out of the park, we visited the Explora Hotel for coffee. It is an interesting elegant place, but we liked the Hotel Lago Grey better.


On the way out of the park, near the Explora Hotel, with the magnificent mountains of the Torres Del Paine as a backdrop.


We then met the others for lunch at another hotel across a footbridge. We headed back to the Costa Australis in Puerto Natales, bumping into Tessa on the way. She was arguing with a taxi-driver who had been sent to pick her up, but she wanted to do her own thing and go on the bus! We stopped to buy stamps and souvenirs at a gift shop near the Argentine border.

Our hotel in Puerto Natales, the Costa Australis.


We had dinner at the hotel with Colin, the Marklands and the Moffatts - King Crabs (centolla).

Total driving distance - 105 miles